The Yemenite Quarter, Tel Aviv

As mentioned before, I stayed in the Yemenite Quarter, or Karem Ha-Teimanim, of Tel Aviv. Its an up-and-coming area, with property prices on the  steady increase.as it becomes  a popular place to live. This is the original area Yemenite Jews settled in when they were airlifted out of Yemen by the Israelis during 1949 and 1950, in Operation Magic Carpet. Virtually the entire Yemeni Jewish population  of 50,000 was evacuated. There are thought to be only 400-odd Yemeni Jews left living in small enclaves in Yemen today. In the Yemenite Quarter, whilst there is still a strong Yemenite influence, it is  now a popular place for artists to live and has quite a bohemian feel to it. 

A funky way to decorate your home! Yemenite Quarter, Tel Aviv

Jibby the dog chillaxing Tel-Aviv style!

On my last day in Tel Aviv, I braved the torrential downpours and headed off to the Ha-Carmel Market, which was only a 10 minute walk from where I was staying. On the way, I got sidetracked by the numerous Yemeni spice stores and being a bit of a foodie,  used it as an opportunity  to have a nose about and stock up on my favourite Zatar and Sumac spices. I asked the shop-keeper to recommend a couple more spices to take home and as well as some recipe ideas and came away with some dried fine vegetable mix for rice dishes and Hawaaij or Hawahij, which is unique Yemeni-Jewish spice. It can be likened to the Indian garam masala, but with more of a kick to it. Hawahij is usually used in soups and casserole-style dishes in Yemenite Jewish cuisine.

Yemenite herb and spice store, Karem Ha-Teimanim

The most popular Yemenite soup in Israel, is Yemenite Shabbat soup, which is traditionally served on a Friday night as well as during holidays like Pesach. Hawahij is the essential ingredient in this soup. The recipe calls for chicken legs and quartered potatoes to be simmered in a chicken stock flavoured with the Hawahij spice. I've made it twice now, but have made a slight adaptation to the recipe by using left-over  cooked chicken breast and leg meat  (with the skin removed) from a previous roast dinner. instead of chicken legs.  Its an economical way to use up leftover chicken and makes the soup less oily. But the choice is yours!

Yemenite Shabbat Soup

1-2 chicken drumsticks per person/ rough chopped cooked chicken breast/thigh/leg meat

1 Litre chicken stock (I cheat and use either Telma chicken stock cubes or Osem chicken stock powder, which you can get in places like Waitrose, Sainsbury's or a local kosher deli). You can always make up more stock if you need it esp if you're making enough for 4-6 people.

1 large potato per person, peeled and quartered

A few ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped

2-3 peeled cloves of garlic, whole

2-3 tablespoons Hawahij spice blend (or make it yourself of you can't buy it: 2 tbsp black peppercorns, 1 tbsp cumin seeds,  1 tsp cardamom seeds, 1 tsp saffron, 2 tsp turmeric and blitz it in a food processor. Store in an airtight container)

1 tablespoon turmeric

Chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) or flat-leave parsley

Salt to taste

Harissa paste to serve (or Zhug if you can get it or make it) depending on whether you want some added heat!

How to make it:

In a large soup pan, put the water, stock cubes or powder, garlic, tomatoes, Hawahij spice and turmeric and bring it to the boil. Add the chicken legs or chopped meat. Maintain a good gentle rolling boil for about 10 minutes if you're using chicken drumsticks, skimming off the foam as you go along. If you're using cooked chicken, maintain a gentle simmer instead. Add the tomatoes and potato and simmer for another 20-30 minutes until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart. Add the chopped parsley or coriander during the last 5 minutes of cooking. Salt according to personal taste. I like a little added heat so add a dollop of Harissa paste to the middle of my soup (easy to buy in the supermarkets in the UK). My husband isn't so keen, so he has his without. In Israel and throughout the Middle East, zhug is the equivalent. 

It can be accompanied by naan bread, pitta bread or by Matzos ( an unleavened large thin flat cracker made from flour and water - in the UK the most common brand found in supermarkets is Rakusens) during Pesach/ Passover when eating chametz, ie bread and other leavened products, is forbidden.

b'tayavon! בתיאבון

Next time, Ha-Carmel Market........